12/8/2023 0 Comments Renogy smart shunt![]() This lowers the number of cycles, but it still charges to 100% if I use any absorption voltage above 13.4 (or maybe 13.5).I've considered that, but two things stopped me: I'm really interested in feedback and any experience others have had accomplishing the same, especially with Victron. as I get close to full (90%+) I want to decrease the target voltage (or just plain stop charging) so as not to fully cycle the battery try to bulk charge at a high voltage (ideally 14.4V) when the battery is depleted to as to get the highest # Amps possible back into the batteryĢ. I could set absorption to ~13.6V, but then if my battery has been drained it'll take ~20 hours to recharge at the lower amperage supplied. Should I change the max absorption time and/or tail current value? I feel like in my limited testing and research tail current should actually be set based on absorption voltage, not based on battery size.So if I'd been in the shade for days and was down ~100Ah I would set it to 14.2 or 14.4V when driving to ensure I got a sufficient recharge, but if I was parked in the sun and only using ~20-30Ah/day I'd leave it at 13.6V or maybe 13.8V and let it "trickle" charge. 3A) but as I increased it I could get up to ~17A 14.4V delivered to the battery. With the Renogy I found if I set it to a lower voltage (i.e. Should I decrease the absorption voltage? With the Renogy I ended up adjusting it between 13.6V and 14.4V depending on the battery SoC each morning.Battery voltage was showing ~13.8 with current being applied Is there no direct way to control any of the bulk charging parameters? I assume the Victron went into bulk mode because it was able to apply constant current.Is bulk charging just "constant current absorption voltage"?.So lots of questions for those with some experience with Victron, and I'm particularly interested in feedback from anyone who has successfully used Victron to limit SoC to <100%: So immediately I'm confused because the Amps being applied are less than the tail current. Upon enabling the device, the Victron went into bulk mode and was applying between 0.5A and 1.2A, depending on the amount of sun (I was in the shade). The Victron LiFePO4 default seems to be too aggressive for me, so I've used the LFP settings as the baseline and then I'm customizing from there. Also note that I have 350W of solar currently available, though I've never seen it deliver more than about 17A at peak (which is barely above 0.05C). ![]() ![]() But when living in the camper I might go 4 days in the shade and be down to 50-60% capacity by the end of the trip. Note that while I have 280Ah, most days when I'm in the camper I'm only using maybe 10% of the battery capacity, and when the camper is parked between trips I'm using maybe 1%. But my goal is to stop around 90% SoC, according to both the Overkill BMS and my Simarine Pico. If I just wanted to charge my LFP to 100% this would be easy. So I'm selling it and I've installed a Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/50 along with a SmartSense monitor. After a 5 week trip, I decided the Renogy Rover Elite 40A wasn't sufficiently configurable, as I found myself regularly adjusting the absorption voltage in order to either speed up charging when I'd been in the shade a few days, or to cut off charging when I started the morning off at ~90%. Those thick battery cables do not, and should not be bent into the sharp 90 degree angles in the pic.įor nothing else before the shunt, that means don’t put a load before it, and don’t put a battery fuse before it.I've got about 2 months of usage on my DIY 280Ah LiFePO4 battery. Making thick cables for 5/16 posts takes up a lot more room than I expected compared to some of the 14 gauge wire with #10 lugs I’d crimped for fuse boxes before. One of my lessons learned is lug sizing and space. I did urchase a battery temp sensor which plugs into B1 B2. The one pictured is for a second battery system, IMO not necessary. The cable plugging into the shunt at B1 and B2 with a dotted line is an accessory, which is not needed. Plug the cable from the shunt to the battery monitor and THat is all you need to do to monitor a battery. Put the Pos supply cable in the shunt, and then attach the lug to the positive battery post. Please note how the current needs to flow through the shunt by basically cutting the thick cable out of the battery negative, crimping two lugs on the wire you just cut.
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